At Home in Rome; Trastevere, Roma

Calm morning along the Tiber // Rome, Italy

I spent some time in Rome last Spring. It was my first time to Italy and truthfully it rocked my world; So much so that we made it a point to spend the first  couple days of this Eastern European trip in the Eternal City again.

Rome is one of the world's most sought after cities with 7-10 million travelers cycling through year after year, and rightfully so. There are endless activities to fill up any week-long schedule. Below, I am going to share a few of my favorite memories and let you in on Roma's most precious secret; Trastevere. 

Even if there weren't endless things to do in this amazing city, you could spend your entire allotment simply roaming its picturesque streets and stopping off for the most delicious food on every corner. To get the most out of our experience last year, we went ahead and purchased the ROMA Pass. With a one time payment of  € 39 you have access to a slue of Roman sites, museums and landmarks over a 72 hour period.  With visits to the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Circus Maximus, and Palatine Hill we put our pass to use right away - Not to mention, the ROMA Pass gives you unlimited/free access to public transportation all around Rome! Definitely something I would recommend for a first timer! 

This time around there was less on the agenda leaving more room for flexible site seeing and absolutely more room in the agenda for pasta. Lots and lots of pasta. To get our appetites up we needed to set out on the town and get our walking feet moving. We had our eyes set on two main sites: The Vatican Museum/Sistine Chapel and The Trevi Fountain. Last year, the Trevi Fountain was under construction so we were unable to see it in all of its glory. As for the Vatican, there is MUCH to cover, so a-lotting a full morning to its expansive grounds in necessary.

June in Rome is no joke, but we were excited about being back in our favorite country and ready to roll with the heat and hectic-ness.

The Vatican:


 The Vatican City is an entire country in and of itself surrounded by Roman lines. Think about that, the Vatican is its own country! Crazy! If you are to ever visit Rome, visiting the Vatican, St. Peter's Basilica and the grounds many museums and gardens is a MUST. Michelangelo outdid himself on this one!

Shawn and sara sneak a picture of the sistine chapel // The Creation of adam is directly above

Any given day can be a busy one. Book your tickets in advance for a morning visit! I suggest the morning because depending on the day of the week, sites like the Sistine Chapel and the Basilica close early to prepare for Pope audiences or other occasions hosted in the Holy City.  Sometimes the most effective way to ensure that you even get into the exhibits in a timely manor is through a tour agency. Now, typically, we are travelers who have little interest in tour groups and like to do the exploring and investigating on our own but with the Vatican, tour groups are almost necessary. We did an English speaking tour through Maya Tours Roma . Our tour guide Deborah with a zesty Italian woman with so much to share and was a seasoned guide, totally kicking butt through the large crowds all while giving an informative experience. 

After the Vatican, it was mid day and time to eat! You can find food everywhere in Rome, just do your homework. Try to avoid places that look designed for tourists. Yelp and Trip Advisor are your friends! If the menu is in more than 2 languages, and mostly pictures: avoid it. If the patio is filled with Aperol Spritz drinking, Italian Speakers, you know you have found the right place! Take a few extra moments to get the Italian food of your dreams! Below I will list a few of my favorites! Read on!

If you prepare for it, Rome is quite the walkable city. If you are there in the Summer just know that a water bottle, comfortable shoes and some patience through the crowds will be necessary. Also, the city of Rome has flowing water fountains almost on every corner. Clean and safe to drink, this makes for filling-up on the go a breeze! We were in the mood for a bit more water so next, we head over to the Trevi Fountain to make a wish and see what the year prior had not allowed us.

The Trevi Fountain: 


Nicola Salvi's - The Trevi Fountain

When in Rome, you do as the Roman's do - but only after you have finished all the touristy stuff. It's impossible to avoid. You go to Rome for the food and the zest and the wine and the joy but truthfully you must see many of the works created by the artists, politicians and clergymen before you. They are truly spectacular and that is why visiting the Trevi Fountain is something to do while finding your way through Roma. 

The fountain is situated in central Rome nestled between the Pantheon and the Spanish Steps. It is something you could stumble upon if you weren't being intentional. 30 years in its construction, the fountain is a prize of the Eternal City paying homage to Baroque style and the story of Rome and its iconic aqueducts. 

Take a few moments to marvel at its size & beauty. It is customary to throw a coin into the fountain using your right hand over your left shoulder. Make a wish !

Revel the city you are in because it is truly a Crown Jewel of the world. To me, Rome (and all of Italy for that matter) is a region of wonder. I come to LIFE when I visit and I hope you do to. There is a particular neighborhood in Rome where I feel truly at peace and that is in Trastevere. Just over the Tiber river, this quaint and often unnoticed treasure stirs with its buzzing night life, picture perfect piazzas and food that will rock your world.  We have stayed in this neighborhood both times during our Roma stays and I feel genuinely at home there. 

Trastevere: 


When we first decided to visit Rome early last year, I didnt know where to start. A close friend pointed me in the direction of dreamy Trastevere and since then, we were hooked. This is a very special part of the city. Out of the way of the central bustle, this little nook below the Vatican comforts you with all the joy's of Rome. The vines grow wild, wine is shared at all hours, and the pop-up cinema's make Summer even more magical. 

Santa Maria Basilica and its Piazza is a perfect place to share a meal and a gelato on the fountain at dusk. The metro runs straight through the middle of town in case walking over the river in the hot sun seems too much. The smell of pizza dough fills the air and the twinkling lights over head illuminate it. It is my perfect neighborhood. Artisanal shops, the finest bakeries, and crafty merchants line the streets. Oh, and Gelato; did I mention endless amounts of Gelato?! 

I am in love with this place. We feel most in love in this place. It is good for our souls. 

We always make it a point to share at least one fancy meal in each city we travel before we leave. Vacation is about "treating yo-self" after all! On our last night in Rome we chose Taverna Trilussa to dine and BOY OH BOY did it leave a mark on us! Starting with a local Lazio bottle of Vino we surveyed the menu with wide eyes and hungry guts. Shawn went in blindly ordering the Ravioli Mimosa alla suggestion of our waiter, Adriano. I was set on the Bucatini all' Amatriciana. 

Everything was perfect. The ambiance, both on the ivy covered patio and indoors with hanging racks of cured meats, was perfect. I felt like I was in the heartbeat of Italy; Fluttering with each new bite of my delicious food. It didnt matter that I had slept 45 mins the night before (Thanks Jet-Lag!) I was wide awake, filled up to my puffy eyeballs with pasta, wine and true, uncontrollable, so-happy-I-could-die, love.

The Where To's:

Have Dinner: Taverna Trilussa, ai Spaghetteri, il Ciak, Galeassi (All in the Trastevere Area)

Have Gelato: Fonte Della Salute, Don Nino

Be sure to also explore: The Pantheon (my favorite monument in Rome), The Colosseum,  and attend mass at Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena

Go Shopping:

Designer Via del Corso, Via del Babuino, Via Ripetta, Via Condotti, Via Frattina, Via Borgognona. These are all grid-like shopping streets crossing over one another around the Spanish Steps. Via del Babuino is the mother-load leading straight to the opening of the Spanish Steps draped with designer labels. 

For the standard shopper - There is some pretty great shopping between Piazza Di Barberini and the Trevi Fountain. Get lost a while and window shop. You will hit a slue of shops past the fountain near Piazza Colonna like Zara and Calvin Klein. There is even an AS Roma store for your boyfriend to peruse while you finish your spending. 

Catch a Breath-Taking View - Minerva Roof Garden or Canonne del Gianicolo 


There is so much more to say about this magical city. Italy is the one place I have visited thus far that has felt "like home" to me. Whether it be in the heart of the hustle in Rome, finding peace in Vatican City, sitting above the bell towers at Canonne del Gianicolo or sipping in the shade in gorgeous Trastevere - I feel whole here. And I hope you will too.

 

xx

Sara De.

 

 

How to Share a Romantic Afternoon in Florence; Italy

Sara and Shawn atop the Duomo // Florence; Italy

There will never be enough to say about beautiful Florence, Italy.  A quick hour and a half train ride from Roma, brings you to this Tuscan city. Red rooftops, and cobbled streets swirl around the cities crown jewel; il Duomo. Everything about the city screams romance. The rumble of music, laughter and joy amongst its streets brings warmth. The architecture, captivating. The museums, moving. This is the perfect place for you are your love to explore. Here is an afternoon itinerary full of romance in the home of renaissance.

Wake up slow, have a café and greet the day! Make sure to have a fueling lunch al fresco - you will need it with all the walking this day will entail! Here we go:

The Duomo: Start with a visit to the Santa Maria del Fiore, aka Duomo. This is one of the most popular sites in Florence to visit and rightfully so. This green, pink and white marble structure is a Gothic masterpiece. I literally gasped when our cab leading us into the city, turned to face it. It is breath taking in every sense of the word. There will surely be a line to climb to the top of the monument, and if you should want to challenge yourself with all 463 steps, it is absolutely worth the wait. A few notes I can offer: if you have spacial issues, or suffer from claustrophobia this would be something to consider. At 720 years old, the Duomo was not constructed with the modern tourist droves in mind. You can expect tight spiral, stone staircases, narrow walk-ways, and as you reach the final paces of your accession, very steep steps. Again, all worth it! Tired and ready for open air, walking out onto the rounded terrace is SURREAL. The tattered red roof tops and rolling Tuscan hills in the distance are your reward for completing the trek. Bravo to you! 

When you are on vacation, rarely are there any rules. Stop for dessert before dinner at Gelateria Edoardo (a gelataria that prides themselves on all organic and local options!) on your way out to your next destination, Ponte Vecchio!

Ponte Vecchio:  The Ponte Vecchio is an iconic Firenze bridge that connects both sides of the city. This medieval stone, enclosed arch-bridge hovers over the Arno River and houses small boutiques of jewelers, art dealers and souvenir shops. Grab a couple of postcards, take a couple pictures over the water, enjoy the street performers along the way and continue on South towards your climactic sunset destination Piazzale Michelangelo. There is a lot of walking to do while exploring a city. Refreshing yourself by grabbing a glass of wine at Bevo Vino in the Piazzetta di San Miniato before making your climb up the stairs of Scale del Monte alle Croci......Onto sunset!

Piazzale Michaelangelo at sunset // florence, italy

Piazzale Michelangelo: When we visited Florence last year, I knew before diving deep into the city that I was going to love it. Studying Renaissance Art in both high school and college, I was drooling over this place since the second I laid eyes on it. With the stunning Uffizzi Gallery having arguably the most important collection of the worlds most ground breaking masterpieces, this city knows a good thing when they see it. We found a whole new masterpiece at the top of Piazzale Michelangelo. The Piazzale is much like an outdoor amphitheater inviting you to have a seat on one of its many stairs to enjoy the view. I have made it a point to seek many gorgeous sunsets in my life and I can truthfully say that in 26 years, this was my absolute favorite. 

The rich rust colored roof tops cast deep shadows over the town. The golden glimmering Arno River cuts through the landscape. Clocktower bells ring in the distance reminding you that time is still passing even when it feels like it's standing still. The Duomo, bold and strong, governs over its beloved city. Ugh! I wish I could be there right now! It was a moment in time I will not soon forget. Every person should see this view and know this joy. It's a must!

Once you have come back down from heaven and your feet are firmly planted on the ground, make your way back to the North side of the city over the river. At this point you will have far passed your average "step count" for the day! When the sun goes down, the Italians eat! By now you will surely need it after all the exercise you have seen! For a mellow, no fuss, yet still epically romantic dinner head to All'Antico Vinaio. There may be a bit of a line peaking out of the small storefront, but it is WORTH IT. Build your own pannino to-go with all the best meats, veggies and fresh ingredients Toscana has to offer. Couple that with a bottle of wine, two plastic cups provided by All'Antico and finish the evening sitting along the stone walls in Piazza Del Signoria. The twilight above you, the trickling water of Fontana del Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune) bonding sweetly with the cellist sonata from a talent playing for tips. I can only hope your time is as idyllic as ours was. Savor your bites and sip your wine slowly - this is what life is ALL ABOUT. As you look up at the Palazzo Vecchio clock tower above you, you will notice that you have just enough time to get to Vivoli for one last scoop of Gelato before there close at Midnight. Don't miss out! Vivoli is said to be the best gelato in Florence, if not all of Italy. PRO TIP: At the intersection of Via del Proconsolo and Via Ghibellina there is (hopefully still there!) a random, stand-alone photobooth. Make memories in this one-off time capsule! Our photostrip is my most beloved souvenir of the whole trip!

At the end of a long afternoon we were proud of the distance we had walked, the heights we had climbed, the moments we let sink in hand in hand. I grew closer to my partner that day by letting this city take hold! 

I hope I have painted a picture for you that is desirable! This, for me, was an afternoon that has made such an impression on my heart, on the way I view my moments with my partner, on the way I savor sunsets, on the way I think about life and love and simple joys. If you end up in Firenze, send all my love. I cannot wait to return!

Preserve Your Penny:

  • Purchasing a bundle card could be a good option for a place like Florence with its 100's of museums and sites. See if the Firenze Card is a good investment for you during your stay! 
  • Though I believe it very important to experience a luxurious meal with a Florentine Steak, having a pannino in a piazza is a great way to fill up and save some dough.
  • Our Airbnb in the heart of Florence was exceptional and cheap! Consider this route over a pricey boutique hotel!
  • Eat where the Italians eat. Restauranteurs will try and lure you into their over priced, decent at best establishments, especially around the main attractions. Dig a little deeper - find a place where the patrons are speaking Italian and the menu is hard to read..... thats when you know it will be the better stuff!

 

xx

Sara De.